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1. #CHICAGO DIM SUM NIGHT SKIN#
2. #CHICAGO DIM SUM NIGHT FULL#

Fat shrimp dumplings enrobed in chewy dough, unctuous steamed spareribs, and vegetable-stuffed sheets of tofu skin all could pass inspection in Chinatown. Panfried corn cakes stuffed with chunks of snappy shrimp straddle the breakfast-appropriate sweet and savory divide, while jiggly chicken feet and honeyed short ribs assertively favor the former side. For me, I thought much of what crowded the table was perfectly executed in the context of the neighborhood. I’m afraid it fogged their mirror on the rest of the meal. Panfried shredded taro cakes were so embedded with five spice powder that they may have cross-contaminated the chubby siu mai, perfuming the tensile shrimp forcemeat and the tobiko roe crown.

#CHICAGO DIM SUM NIGHT FULL#

One afternoon’s deep-fried taro puffs and minced pork dumplings served at room temperature created a crime scene of fryer oil and darkened the collective mood of a table full of fressers with the default disposition of crankiness when it comes to Chinese food. That may be the case, but I experienced such a variety in execution among the bites I tried that it sometimes made the effort seem irrelevant. More so than regional differences, the question on everyone’s mind when it comes to the dumplings, buns, rolls, cakes, and pastries that make up the universe of dim sum is whether they’re prepared in-house or stamped out en masse, frozen, and trucked to the back door by some outside vendor before they’re steamed or fried, stacked, and then dutifully wheeled out on pushcarts through crowded dining rooms.įang threw down a glove when D Cuisine opened in early June, not just for the location he chose, but for the promise of dim sum made in-house daily. Does that make any difference in the dim sum he serves every day from 8 AM to 11 PM on North Clark Street? And that’s also definitely true of its particular subset of dim sum, the ritualized brunch of tea and small bites also known as yum cha.īut in fact, no matter how much solidarity we feel for democracy-driven protesters currently getting gassed and clubbed by police and (possibly) Beijing-supported thugs, the practice of yum cha originated on the mainland, in roadside tearooms in Guangzhou, where Cantonese food is known-as it is everywhere else in China-as Guangdong cuisine, named for the surrounding province.ĭanny Fang, the owner of Lincoln Park’s D Cuisine, is from Guangzhou, as is his chef, Fang Yu. In the 48 years before the colonizer turned the island back over to the mainland and up until the present, Hong Kong has maintained its own identity, not a small part of which is its standing as the world capital of Cantonese food-probably the most internationally recognizable regional Chinese cuisine among so many. Tuesday, October 1, marks the 70th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China, a milestone that Hong Kong-under British rule at the time-doesn’t share. Best of Chicago 2022: Sports & Recreation.